Dominicanas

20 Years Ago

/ Marlo / Leave a comment

This month marks the 20th anniversary of my first trip to the Dominican Republic. I would like to reflect on this in my blog so my boys will know the details. My life changed forever in a few short weeks.

A view from Los Marranitos looking down into valley near my husband’s town. 2015

In March of 2002, I innocently took a trip to the Dominican Republic. It was a big deal. I say innocently because I somehow arrived at my destination by sheer will power and good intentioned people or pure luck. I experienced the most profound emotional connection to the earth and a group of people that would eventually become my family. I literally became grounded.

My desire to go to DR came about because of Julia Alvarez, a Dominican writer. She spoke at Miss Porter’s School where I was a teacher at the time. She spoke about a coffee farm in the mountains and the little El Centro she and her husband created. My eyes teared while she spoke, ok yeah, I cried several times during her conversation. Ms Alvarez has a way with words, after all she is an award winning writer. She moved me deeply and the DR called to me. A few years later I wrote to Ms. Alvarez and asked her if I could stay at her little community center, El Centro and she said yes. I had initially set out to investigate this place because I was planning for a future trip to bring a group of Porter’s girls to make art. It took me years but I did finally bring a group of Porter’s girls to the mountains of DR.

Kids who worked with their families at La Finca Alta Gracia. Julia Alvarez created El Centro to help bring in more educational opportunities for the children of the families working on the coffee farm. 2002

During spring break of my school year I flew to DR. I had invited my cousin to go with me. She and I are the same age and have similar interests. I had never really been anywhere outside of the country on this kind of journey. Our first stop was Sosua, a beach town that has the most precious inlet with shade from mangrove trees. I am not going to lie we had a great time. We met a couple of Dominican and Haitian guys who were in party mode. At the time the dollar was worth 54 pesos, it has gone up and down and 20 years later is still the same 54 pesos- not shocking. We stayed in the beach town for a couple of days and then headed to the mountains to Los Marranitos where El Centro at La Finca Alta Gracia was located. My cousin’s trip would be shorter than mine and soon I would be by myself at El Centro. She only had a week off from work. I didn’t desire to be by myself it just worked out like that.

In reality because of that time by myself, I experienced an intense self awakening. It sounds hippy but it is the truth. Although I didn’t know it at the time but in the months afterward the flood of emotions clued me into the fact that I was changing.

The view on the way up from Jarabacoa to area Los Marranitos. 2015

How can I describe what I experienced? At the time it was hard for me to verbalize it. I can now. It was the smell of pine wood walls, the dry air, the very cold nights, the hot- noon time sun, the breeze, the smoke from food being cooked over an open wood flame, the woman singing Bachata in a tone that I would understand as time went on, my serious lack of understanding the Spanish language, late night walks in total darkness- there was no electricity- at all, drinking very cold Presidente- a beer, dancing the most passionate Merengue, smelling night time blooming flowers(myth?), working with clay-earth straight from the ground, meeting the most generous people, forming friendships with children of which I had been known to do- but this trait travelled with me….How can I be that magical person that children want to follow, here, there and everywhere? Developing such a deep sense of belonging that I would return again in June and then November. I felt a connection to my Puerto Rican roots. Things I understood by food made by my Nana and stories told by her translated to there. Yes, I know I am talking about two different islands and cultures but the similarities were/are undeniable.

Image from my contact sheet. El Centro is in the middle of this photo, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic. 2002

I fell in love with a people, a culture and a land- 100%. And when asked about my trip I had no words to express or describe it. I cried, like literally for two months straight, a pure fountain of agua.

As a young person I always wanted to be a world traveler and I did so through National Geographic, through art, books and movies. I was 32 when I travelled to DR. I was well travelled within the USA but not outside of it. There are several names to call what I was feeling but no need to name anything. I chose to print my photographs, and return as soon as possible.

Pre Google maps and cell phones and translators I had made my arrangements with a young woman via email. She was a volunteer from Julia’s school where Julia taught in Vermont. I got the directions from her, printed it and brought it with me. Simple, right? No not simple at all, but so much fun. Because we didn’t know better, we took a taxi from the beach town to the mountain town of Jarabacoa. Who does that? I will try to not make fun of myself but the fact that we arrived safely is remarkable. Then from Jarabacoa we got on the back of a truck, una guagua, looking like hikers with our huge back packs, yeah we hiked. But it seemed silly to be in hiking gear when we were surrounded by people living- not hiking- in their daily lives.

Images from my contact sheets, La Finca Alta Gracia, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic, 2002.

After reaching another stop, which was the correct stop, however we didn’t know it, we got on the back of mopeds and travelled another 20 minutes further north near Manaboa. The reality is that there were multiple places called Alta Gracia. Eventually we made it back to Los Marranitos. I now know this place like the back of my hand, so it seems odd to recall those first days with such confusion. We had finally arrived to El Centro and the reality was that this place was super isolated, even more isolated than the little surrounding communities. If you didn’t have a dirt bike or motorcycle it took 20 minutes to walk to El Centro. I was in pretty good shape at the time but it was a serious hike in and down and hike up and out. It was a coffee farm in the mountains.

Image from my contact sheet, La Finca Alta Gracia, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic. 2002

This day of travel from the ocean side into the mountainside was unforgettable. Traveling in ways I have never experienced before leading us to experience the most grand vista with breath taking views. And it was the first day of the rest of my life.

A few things have happened since that first trip.

One of my favorite pictures of my family, Río, Angelo and Adoni, Los Dajaos, Dominican Republic. 2014
  • I married a Dominican man, Luis Manuel, muy sincero, cariñoso y hermoso también
  • We have two children together, born 2006 and 2007
  • We both learned a new language and became bilingual
  • An airport was built in Santiago making travel easier for us
  • The Porter’s community, we lived on campus, accepted Luis and because of this he grew
  • We built a functioning bathroom at his parents house-no more outhouse, we also bought property and built houses in the DR
  • I shared my photographs taken in DR in multiple places like Woodstock Center for Photography and Lightwork and others
  • Luis, opened a successful Painting business in 2006, he came here like many immigrants con nada
  • Cell phones arrived and eventually cell towers and because of this the mountain communities are changed forever
  • With my help Porter’s invited the Spanish ceramist Angels Tello Pardo, whose little school in the mountains of DR helped women make a living making Taino Pottery, to the school to share her passion and craft with the students
  • We had children who have grown up in the mountains of DR, they are bicultural and bilingual
  • My husband became a citizen of USA
  • Because of his Visa status he was able to bring family members to the USA
  • I finally brought Porter’s students on the most amazing trip to the mountains
  • Electricity was installed on the roads by the government
  • The road to Los Dajaos, my husband’s town was paved
  • I have seen the babies I photographed in those first years have their own babies
  • I have also witnessed death- regular and devastating , sickness and disease like HIV
  • I have the most beautiful photographic images etched into my memory unlike no other experience
  • We have worked so hard to make sure our children know what it means to be from the mountains of DR

I have so many photographs but they existed secondary to my feelings. I spent years going to sleep every night, breathing deeply and thinking about and visualizing the mountains. I did this with a smile on my face, it was my meditation. Earlier I had said I became grounded. After a year of multiple trips to the DR, for the first time in my life I felt like “Everything is going to be all right”.

Me and Luis Manuel in Los Dajaos, Dominican Repunlic. 2002

Who goes to the salon once a week? Dominicans do.

/ Marlo / 2 Comments

Today is international women’s day and although this post has been in the works for a while now I thought it appropriate to publish it today.

When I first experienced this idea of the “salon” in DR, I honestly didn’t understand why. Why would I go through so much trouble to straighten my hair when in no short time it would be back wild and frizzy. That was my understanding of the salon-putting rolos-curlers in the hair- an addiction to have straight hair. Well I am partially wrong. I missed the part called family and women doing things together. Let’s think about the salon as a woman’s world and woman’s work and most importantly companionship.

My grandmother Rena and her sisters.

My grandmother and her sisters set their hair with curlers, slept with those damn things, and this happened regularly. I thought of it as quaint, something from the past, but I missed the point. What an ass I am/was. In my defense, my mother never did her own hair in curlers and certainly never taught me to do mine. I was also a teenager in the 80’s when everyone who had straight hair got a perm to make big hair. My perspective has been about the art of it- the finish, not necessarily the process – and companionships. My grandmother, the one not looking in the picture, had 5 sisters and they had a beautiful bond and one that lasted. Maybe I am romanticizing it by saying that they confirmed those bonds over and over by doing each other’s hair. My great aunt Freda is still alive! She will be 94 this year, beautiful soul, she is the one pictured far right.

1987 high school yearbook

Here in DR, it seems to be a right of passage of women to learn how to put hair en rolos, one female member of the family passes it onto the next. I totally understand there is the immense history of hair straightening here and Dominicans are the best at it. The roots aren’t necessarily from a good place, and I really can’t bring up rollos with out mentioning the roots. See the link below, a trusted friend Ruth, shared this link with me.

Natural Hair Is Still Under Attack in the Dominican Republic

My salon experiences over the last couple of months here in DR. They were Joyful and full of family and companionship even if I didn’t understand every word.

At this moment I would prefer to think of the salon as self care and comfort. So I will announce that I have had an awakening about self care and salons since the summer of 2019 when my cousin did my hair for the first time. Thank you Andrea. It has only taken me 18 years to figure it out, or my entire adult life?! I say 18 years because I have been traveling to DR since 2002. As my friends know, I am not a regular attendee of salons, nor do I do my nails at salons. How regular of me, or boring or conservative with my money, call it what you want but it hasn’t been my thing.

Me volunteering in the Bodyshop at Wasteland 2019, California.

I am an artist and I think it is time that I allow myself to enjoy self care experiences versus thinking about the art of it all. I worked at Miss Porter’s School, an all girls boarding school. I was the photography teacher there for 14 years, I loved my job. It is interesting to know that the other part of my job was heading the costume, hair and make up crew. I was in the position of doer, not receiver- 14 years!!! Don’t get me wrong, I always saw what I was doing as art, start to finish and I was proud of my work. So to bring this post full circle, I have always been in the position of companionship but not always receiving the care or allowing myself to take it in fully. And for some reason, this year, family is what brought it up for me in a way I hadn’t noticed before.