One would think that going dancing should be easy. After my twenties it became harder and harder and complicated. There weren’t Ubers and I didn’t live in the city. That night in 2002 that I danced on a tiny little dance floor, muy pegado con la gente, squished in tight with the folks, in the mountains, dancing merengue and bachata, I was in love with dancing all over again.
I was a club girl, totally. The night club, the Mission in Hartford was a favorite. One of my best friends also danced there too. We probably brushed arms, legs, boobs and butts, we didn’t know each other then, but we reminisce about that time. We were both in love with the music, the people and of course the dancing. I didn’t grow up dancing merengue or bachata or salsa. I grew up with disco and r&b in the background. I won’t get into my musical tastes.
Trying to recreate that feeling of dancing in the mountains of Dominican in Connecticut, well it just didn’t work. I think there are several missing parts, family, open air and just being able to walk across the street to the Colmado, where the dance floor exists is HUGE. During Luis’ first years in Connecticut we tried to find a place to dance and yeah, no success. Let me tell you why… Entrance fee, nope. High priced drinks, nope. Competition dancers (at least in the Latino dancing world), such a turn off for Luis, nope. If we drank, we had to drive home so one of us needed to be careful, nope. People don’t want to dance til 12 midnight, nope. Not the right music, nope. Switching partners, I guess that is an island thing, nope. And on and on!
Sometimes when we come here to DR we don’t get to dance because someone passed away and therefore there is no music, nor dancing. It is the way here and I don’t question it. It is just sad for us as it is our only little coveted time to dance how we like to.
Last night, here in the mountains, I danced, we danced and it was great. And today I am sore! That is funny, as I am working hard on strengthening my bones. I want to dance more but I just haven’t done it. Zumba is not my thing lol. Either way no judgment here, but my source of inspiration showed up last night in great form! Here she is!
Duvina, as she is called, raised her family and has grandchildren who live close by but she mostly lives alone. She has a hike to get to her house but she walks everywhere. She always leaves her little sandals at the door when entering someone’s home. She is then barefoot and is maybe 85. No one really knows, nor does she.
Always a mixed crowd- all ages.Luis dancing with his mom. She loves this!
Berimon, in the red shirt, is a cousin. They both are dancing hard and mostly that is how people dance minus the hard grinding at the end of the video lol. That is the youth, occasionally you will see older folks grinding.
There is a band that plays everything. They were great at keeping the crowd going. They held a competition, best dancer wins 100.00 dollars, not pesos! And Duvina becomes one of the contestants, wow. My hero, everyone’s hero. The contest is something new around here. The guy who hired the band asked them to do it. As it is holiday time many folks who live in USA are here to be with family. Some folks who work all year, hard as hell doing the hard ass jobs that most Americans won’t do, save their money to come back to DR and enjoy it, be generous with it. In some cases it isn’t as sweet as I make it out to be. But in this case, this guy is always generous with the community. He raised the award to 300.00 and basically gave each couple dancing 100.00. I won’t get into how little people make here. As I said, generous.
Duvina and cousin Marino doing their thing!
As Christmas Eve is upon us I wish everyone health, safety, family in good health and some form of happiness even if it is just a good time dancing in your kitchen.
This month marks the 20th anniversary of my first trip to the Dominican Republic. I would like to reflect on this in my blog so my boys will know the details. My life changed forever in a few short weeks.
A view from Los Marranitos looking down into valley near my husband’s town. 2015
In March of 2002, I innocently took a trip to the Dominican Republic. It was a big deal. I say innocently because I somehow arrived at my destination by sheer will power and good intentioned people or pure luck. I experienced the most profound emotional connection to the earth and a group of people that would eventually become my family. I literally became grounded.
My desire to go to DR came about because of Julia Alvarez, a Dominican writer. She spoke at Miss Porter’s School where I was a teacher at the time. She spoke about a coffee farm in the mountains and the little El Centro she and her husband created. My eyes teared while she spoke, ok yeah, I cried several times during her conversation. Ms Alvarez has a way with words, after all she is an award winning writer. She moved me deeply and the DR called to me. A few years later I wrote to Ms. Alvarez and asked her if I could stay at her little community center, El Centro and she said yes. I had initially set out to investigate this place because I was planning for a future trip to bring a group of Porter’s girls to make art. It took me years but I did finally bring a group of Porter’s girls to the mountains of DR.
Kids who worked with their families at La Finca Alta Gracia. Julia Alvarez created El Centro to help bring in more educational opportunities for the children of the families working on the coffee farm. 2002
During spring break of my school year I flew to DR. I had invited my cousin to go with me. She and I are the same age and have similar interests. I had never really been anywhere outside of the country on this kind of journey. Our first stop was Sosua, a beach town that has the most precious inlet with shade from mangrove trees. I am not going to lie we had a great time. We met a couple of Dominican and Haitian guys who were in party mode. At the time the dollar was worth 54 pesos, it has gone up and down and 20 years later is still the same 54 pesos- not shocking. We stayed in the beach town for a couple of days and then headed to the mountains to Los Marranitos where El Centro at La Finca Alta Gracia was located. My cousin’s trip would be shorter than mine and soon I would be by myself at El Centro. She only had a week off from work. I didn’t desire to be by myself it just worked out like that.
In reality because of that time by myself, I experienced an intense self awakening. It sounds hippy but it is the truth. Although I didn’t know it at the time but in the months afterward the flood of emotions clued me into the fact that I was changing.
The view on the way up from Jarabacoa to area Los Marranitos. 2015
How can I describe what I experienced? At the time it was hard for me to verbalize it. I can now. It was the smell of pine wood walls, the dry air, the very cold nights, the hot- noon time sun, the breeze, the smoke from food being cooked over an open wood flame, the woman singing Bachata in a tone that I would understand as time went on, my serious lack of understanding the Spanish language, late night walks in total darkness- there was no electricity- at all, drinking very cold Presidente- a beer, dancing the most passionate Merengue, smelling night time blooming flowers(myth?), working with clay-earth straight from the ground, meeting the most generous people, forming friendships with children of which I had been known to do- but this trait travelled with me….How can I be that magical person that children want to follow, here, there and everywhere? Developing such a deep sense of belonging that I would return again in June and then November. I felt a connection to my Puerto Rican roots. Things I understood by food made by my Nana and stories told by her translated to there. Yes, I know I am talking about two different islands and cultures but the similarities were/are undeniable.
Image from my contact sheet. El Centro is in the middle of this photo, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic. 2002
I fell in love with a people, a culture and a land- 100%. And when asked about my trip I had no words to express or describe it. I cried, like literally for two months straight, a pure fountain of agua.
As a young person I always wanted to be a world traveler and I did so through National Geographic, through art, books and movies. I was 32 when I travelled to DR. I was well travelled within the USA but not outside of it. There are several names to call what I was feeling but no need to name anything. I chose to print my photographs, and return as soon as possible.
Pre Google maps and cell phones and translators I had made my arrangements with a young woman via email. She was a volunteer from Julia’s school where Julia taught in Vermont. I got the directions from her, printed it and brought it with me. Simple, right? No not simple at all, but so much fun. Because we didn’t know better, we took a taxi from the beach town to the mountain town of Jarabacoa. Who does that? I will try to not make fun of myself but the fact that we arrived safely is remarkable. Then from Jarabacoa we got on the back of a truck, una guagua, looking like hikers with our huge back packs, yeah we hiked. But it seemed silly to be in hiking gear when we were surrounded by people living- not hiking- in their daily lives.
Images from my contact sheets, La Finca Alta Gracia, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic, 2002.
After reaching another stop, which was the correct stop, however we didn’t know it, we got on the back of mopeds and travelled another 20 minutes further north near Manaboa. The reality is that there were multiple places called Alta Gracia. Eventually we made it back to Los Marranitos. I now know this place like the back of my hand, so it seems odd to recall those first days with such confusion. We had finally arrived to El Centro and the reality was that this place was super isolated, even more isolated than the little surrounding communities. If you didn’t have a dirt bike or motorcycle it took 20 minutes to walk to El Centro. I was in pretty good shape at the time but it was a serious hike in and down and hike up and out. It was a coffee farm in the mountains.
Image from my contact sheet, La Finca Alta Gracia, Los Marranitos, Dominican Republic. 2002
This day of travel from the ocean side into the mountainside was unforgettable. Traveling in ways I have never experienced before leading us to experience the most grand vista with breath taking views. And it was the first day of the rest of my life.
A few things have happened since that first trip.
One of my favorite pictures of my family, Río, Angelo and Adoni, Los Dajaos, Dominican Republic. 2014
I married a Dominican man, Luis Manuel, muy sincero, cariñoso y hermoso también
We have two children together, born 2006 and 2007
We both learned a new language and became bilingual
An airport was built in Santiago making travel easier for us
The Porter’s community, we lived on campus, accepted Luis and because of this he grew
We built a functioning bathroom at his parents house-no more outhouse, we also bought property and built houses in the DR
I shared my photographs taken in DR in multiple places like Woodstock Center for Photography and Lightwork and others
Luis, opened a successful Painting business in 2006, he came here like many immigrants con nada
Cell phones arrived and eventually cell towers and because of this the mountain communities are changed forever
With my help Porter’s invited the Spanish ceramist Angels Tello Pardo, whose little school in the mountains of DR helped women make a living making Taino Pottery, to the school to share her passion and craft with the students
We had children who have grown up in the mountains of DR, they are bicultural and bilingual
My husband became a citizen of USA
Because of his Visa status he was able to bring family members to the USA
I finally brought Porter’s students on the most amazing trip to the mountains
Electricity was installed on the roads by the government
The road to Los Dajaos, my husband’s town was paved
I have seen the babies I photographed in those first years have their own babies
I have also witnessed death- regular and devastating , sickness and disease like HIV
I have the most beautiful photographic images etched into my memory unlike no other experience
We have worked so hard to make sure our children know what it means to be from the mountains of DR
I have so many photographs but they existed secondary to my feelings. I spent years going to sleep every night, breathing deeply and thinking about and visualizing the mountains. I did this with a smile on my face, it was my meditation. Earlier I had said I became grounded. After a year of multiple trips to the DR, for the first time in my life I felt like “Everything is going to be all right”.
Me and Luis Manuel in Los Dajaos, Dominican Repunlic. 2002
Oddly enough quarantine allowed me to discover that I need some time off. I gave myself freedom to create a space to travel in, and be creative and be in the “zone”.
One of the pieces I worked on inspired by the class in the link below.
A month ago Adoni and I started an art class called Spread Your Artistic Wings through Intuitive Art with Maria Fondler-Grossbaum. I had purchased this class in the fall of 2019. I did it in an effort to “create” during my time in Dominican Republic… before Rio and Baseball in DR took over. And of course it didn’t happen, I couldn’t make the time and when I did try I didn’t have internet to actually watch the tutorials. So many excuses per my usual life. Or I shouldn’t be so hard on myself. We live a very busy life, a full life.
Checking out my materials, Dominican Republic, January, 2020.
In my current mindset all I want to do is travel inward not outward. For the first time in years I just want to be in that creative zone and create. While Adoni and I worked that second day we created for hours. He emerged from the “zone” because his tummy was calling for food. When he looked at the time he was surprised. We had been traveling inward for 3 hours. Since, I have secretly cried multiple times as I miss THIS. In one of Maria’s classes she makes a joke about being philosophical talking about traveling inward. Granted this video was made long before Covid-19, long before quarantine. In it she challenges everyone to travel inward and even suggests that we don’t need to pay for travel to far away places to feel freedom and relaxation. That if we allow ourselves to open our minds and draw freely without judgment we can travel very far.
One of the pieces I worked on inspired by the class in the link above.
And I did, I went to the “zone”. Truthfully I am not sure I will be coming back to the life I was living anytime soon. So please excuse me if I don’t want to meet up, join the gathering or fly some where because I am already there in my mind, in my creative place.
One of Adoni’s pieces inspired by the class in the link above.
With Love, Marlo and the Boys 